Monday, December 19, 2016


To Endure
The Galloping Ghost of the Java Coast
Image result for uss houston ca-30

Since starting this blog I’ve placed a great deal of thought into the subject of endurance and what it means to “endure”. It crept up on me slowly at first. It picked up speed after Mike and I completed our first trial run up to Huntsville State Park fully loaded. (previous post)
In the days after that “dress rehearsal / trial run” it became clear to me how serious our endeavor to ride across the heart of the US was really going to be. I came back from those two days sore and tired. My eyes were opening to the fact that a tour of this magnitude was going to be a great deal more than a weekend training ride. More than a weeklong tour in Colorado, or Wyoming, or Montana, which I and others in our Ultramiler Group have ridden many times in the last 20 years fully supported. We will have no such support.
This post is about the essence of what endurance is all about by using the real story of a relative I never knew – the husband of my Dad’s Sister and my Uncle. You’re probably asking by now, where I’m going with this because the title above says, “The Galloping Ghost of the Java Coast”. So let’s get to it. 
Recently on a visit to my Mom and Dad in an assisted living facility in Conroe, my Dad and I discussed some of his experiences as an Airman in the Army Air Core in WWII. In those discussions we talked a bit about his sister, my Aunt Alice and her husband Lowell.
Alice Benita Standley Swartz and Lowell Wendell Swartz met in the Navy during WWII. Aunt Alice was a Navy Lieutenant and a Nurse. Uncle Lowell was a Pharmacist Mate on the Galloping Ghost of the Java Coast - the USS Houston CA-50. 
My dad’s recollection of Uncle Lowell was that he was a very quiet man and that he spent time as a prisoner of the Japanese but not much more. My memories of Uncle Lowell were foggy to say the least. I know I met him and my Aunt Alice. But I cannot tell you where or when. I too recall he was present but not talkative. Using the marvels of the internet, I decided to do a bit of research. 
First I made a visit to the National Archival Databases after getting a hit with Uncle Lowell’s name. Here I found he was on the USS Houston – CA-30 in the Asiatic Fleet, a fact I had not known before. Next I began researching the history of the USS Houston which quickly led me to discover my Uncle Lowell was on that ship during the Battle of the Java Sea February – 1942 and the Battle of Sunda Strait soon afterwards.


The USS Houston CA-50 and the USS Perth were a part of an allied force made up of American, Australian, Dutch and English ships that were soundly defeated by the Japenese in the Battle of the Java Sea. 
On the way back to port after that first battle, the Houston was attacked numerous times by Japanese bombers. Evasive maneuvers were implemented involving timing the bombs to a certain point in their drop and then turning hard starboard or port out of the falling path of the ordinance. This went on for hours. 
A single errant bomb hit the vessel just behind the #3 turret killing 40 or more men instantly taking one of three turrets out of action. This didn’t sink the Houston but it did cripple their fire power for the battle that would ensue later that night. There was no time for repairs. Invasion was imminent.  
Within hours of their return to port the Houston and the Perth were dispatched back out to intercept the invasion force of Japanese troop transports and heavy destroyers that would eventually take their intended target islands. These were the only allied ships that made it to the Strait that night under cover of darkness. Little did they know that they were sailing into the heart of the enemy force. 
As night fell the USS Perth spotted a Japanese heavy vessel and opened fire with all it had followed by the Houston. Soon it became clear the single Japanese vessel was not alone. They were in the midst of a Japanese armada that was moored just offshore in the darkness. The Houston and the Perth began firing point blank into the Japanese ships.  Soon the Japanese fired star bombs that lit up the sky and the ocean revealing two lone allied vessels. Then all hell broke loose. It did not take long for both captains to order abandon ship just before both went down. The captains went down with their ships. The Japanese had sunk two allied destroyers. YET they also sunk 6 of their own ships in the process. Two of which were later refloated to fight again. 
Of the original 1,068 men onboard the Houston, 368 survived and swam to shore. Uncle Lowell was one of those 368 survivors to reach the beach and was quickly taken captive as a POW. Many were eventually taken to Burma to help build the Burma to Thailand Railroad. The same RR that crossed over the river Kwai. 
 (Did you ever see the movie “Bridge Over the River Kwai”). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bridge_on_the_River_Kwai
As I researched this blog it became obvious those that survived captivity had endured unspeakable horrors. Beatings with bamboo clubs in the face were routine as was being forced to bath in human sewer in the rivers of Indonesia. Infectious diseases and starvation was common. They ate rice and an occasional cat if they were lucky. Those that became too weak to work were thrown into a room on top of each other to die. 
Many developed what was called Jungle Ulcers, an infection of the skin that ate quickly all the way to the bone. Some of the luckier sailors were attended to by Dutch and other POW doctors who were able to treat them with maggots that literally ate the dead flesh and the infection away allowing the wound to eventually heal. 
The Japanese provided zero medical support. When my Uncle was liberated, he had pneumonia and peritonitis. http://www.usshouston.org/crewlist/crewroster5.htm
There are a couple of very good videos about the crew as well as the battle and the vessel. For reference, these are excellent documentaries. 

We of course don’t expect to be captured by an army while riding across the US from San Francisco to Lexington Virginia. We don’t expect to have to deal with Jungle Ulcers or beatings or starvation. But we do expect that it will not be a walk in the park and there may be an ulcer or two on the butts of my fellow riders J. I’ll be on a recumbent which is not known for butt ulcers. 
I’ve just finished reading one book and am now reading the second written by people that made it all the way across. Yet both made it differently that we will do it. One young lady did it with the support of a film crew. The other did it with the support of an RV. But after reading the book “Crazy Cycling Chick” and beginning to read “All the Way to Lincoln Way” by Bill Row out of Davis, California I know a bit more about what we will encounter. (More about them in future posts.)
We will have a great deal of traffic to deal with as we depart out of San Francisco. The route will be mostly managed by riding bike paths and side roads. We will have rain and fog and yes even snow in the Sierras and Rockies in May and June. 
We will experience near 100f heat in the deserts of Nevada and Utah. We will have massive thunderstorms in the plains of Colorado and Kansas by the time we get there in July. Some of those will have hail in them and we will have to deal with that. We also know that there will be wind. Lots of wind. Sometimes at our back and sometimes hitting us right in the face. Wind is the single most demoralizing reality that both books have in common. 
My career in the oil industry taught me that a lack of preparation will not just cost you a customer, it will kill you and your business. One of my bosses in my 43 year career in the field gave me a piece advice that I will never forget. His name is Dan Settles and is now retired in Oklahoma on his family ranch. Dan’s advice was simple: He said Tom in all you do always remember the “7 P’s”. 
Proper, Prior, Planning, Prevents, Piss, Poor, Performance. That advice served me well in many ways. I hope for it to serve me well on this tour. 
When we study the battles fought in the early stages of WWII history teaches us that  we as a nation were not prepared for WWII. We and our leaders chose to stay neutral and insulated. I am confident that the crew of the Houston was well trained in their duties. This was discussed in some of the documentaries. When the time came they fought gallantly against an enemy that was vastly larger and better equipped.
I wish I could have known my Uncle. I wish I could tell him Thank You for your service. And I’d like to tell him: Uncle Lowell, your story has inspired me. Your trials during the war have given me a glimpse into what it means to Endure. I thank you Uncle Lowell. 
As a footnote to the story: The USS Houston was named the Galloping Ghost of the Java Coast because Tokyo Rose reported her sunk over 8 times early in the war only to reappear until that fateful night in The Sunda Strait. 
The Houston was recently found by archeologists and the Navy. See it here. 





Monday, November 28, 2016

Trial Run

Week before last (November 14th 2016) , Mike Lukk and I completed our first trial run - cycle / camp trip from The Woodlands to Huntsville State park and back. Our goal was simply one of learning and exploration. Total distance was about 70 miles up on day one and about 50 back on day two. We purposefully rode extra miles to simulate a typical 60_70 mile set of touring days.

We carried most of the gear we would carry on a real tour:  sleeping bag, tent, stove, cooking items, change of clothes, bike repair stuff, toiletries, air mattress, tools, and canned and freeze dried food and more.

Mike pulled his Burley  trailer behind his mountain bike. I loaded my Randonee REI touring bike using a set of Topek panniers and rack.

I originally planned to also pull a trailer but found out the night before we departed that the Burley attachment system would not fit my bike. I would need a $12 adapter if I intended to use it in the future. I'm guessing we both were pulling close to 40 Lbs. of gear each.

Temperature's were in the upper 80sf during the day and in the mid 50sf that night. We arrived there mid afternoon. We rode at tour pace, 12 - 15 mph. Both bikes performed well. Same for the trailer. And yes we learned a great deal.

Some of those lessons learned are as follows:
  • We are not going to be able to drink a couple of beers every day after the days ride is over. In fact it is detrimental as it gives you a nice lift and then your energy levels spiral downward.
  • The better choice is going to be to drink some form of recovery drink like simple chocolate milk. And we should do this within an hour or so of arriving at camp. And if we do drink a beer or two we better buy it before we go into the park. We had to ride 10 miles round trip to find a store with beer. Not a wise use of our energy.
  • We brought food with us. Stuff like A can of Campbell's Soup, Sardines, Oatmeal and freeze dried soup and noodles. Yet we were still hungry and pulled into a Burger King to eat something more substantial on both the up and the return trips. This going to take some getting used to out in the deserts and plains of America as there won't be a McDonalds or even a convenience store out in many of the rural areas we will be cycling thru.
  • It's one thing to ride 70 miles. Quite another to ride that distance and then pitch your tent, and fix food, and take a shower and then go to sleep. It was dark at 6:00pm and we only used flashlights and head lamps but it seemed like time to sleep. Which resulted in waking up in the early morning hours and being unable to go back to sleep.
  • My touring bike is not going to work for me. I hated the fact that my butt was killing me after only two days of riding. And not only that. My left shoulder ached. My wrists both ached. I'm guessing because of two broken wrists in High School. My feet were also hurting or should I say burning. And we didn't even climb a mountain pass.
  • The stove I brought along worked great. The coffee brewing didn't work as well. I've since bought a French Press attachment for the stove pot that will work wonders to make two cups of coffee.
  • The tent I purchased from REI in the spring of this year was not going to be strong enough for the winds we expect to encounter in the desert and plains of the US. So it was returned and replaced with a Quarter Dome 2 REI tent.
 So, decisions had to be made and made without hesitation around some of these learning's. First, I decided to return my REI Randonee touring bike as well as the tent mentioned above. Gay bought me this bike and I hated to return it. But after discussing it she quickly told me to either sell it or replace it. Comfort is going to decide our success.

I cannot say enough about REI. Even though I had the bike hanging most of the time for about 9 months, REI did not hesitate to honor their one year full satisfaction guarantee. No questions were asked other then my reason which they documented and refunded the full amount.

On Friday November 25th while on our way back from having Thanksgiving in Kerrville, Gay and I stopped at Planetary Cycles on the SW side of Houston to look at a consignment Recumbent. A Bacchetta Corsa. Aluminum speed bike that I would reconfigure for touring. The bike was less than a year old and in perfect shape. New it would have cost $2400. We paid $1,000. About $300 less than the touring bike.

A new mountain bike crank set is on order. $150. And I will change out the rear cog and wheels. Saving all the parts for future use.

I took a 60 mile test ride on the Corsa on Saturday. While it was very different than my R84 Lighting, it didn't take long to get used to it.

So the plan now is for me to ride the Corsa pulling a Burley Treking trailer purchased from a friend in our bike group for $125. Both are in virtually perfect condition.

More soon

T10





Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Yesterday marked my first serious tour pace exploration ride. After loading my panniers with a small amount of gear I took off for Montgomery then Conroe and home. My goal was to see what it would be like to pretend i was sight seeing and not in any hurry.

After 20 miles or so I began to  pay little attention to speed. Just focusing on the sights and smells and sounds of the roads. Along the way I began to recall past tours with my brother Dan when we rode unsupported from San Francisco to LA. Then LA to Phoenix taking in the sights and visiting from time to time. Reliving some of the past.

We had four goals every day.

1. Stay on our route.
2. Stay hydrated and fueled.
3. Distance ourselves from our normal day to day routines and challenges.
4. Take it all in. Seize every minute.

I'm not sure how to explain it, but you get into a rhythm and a peaceful mindset when in this state of mind. Similar to meditation in some respects. And interestingly at the end of each day of touring I felt calm and pleasantly fatigued, sleeping soundly all night. Just like I slept last night.

It was so nice I've decided to go out again today and continue the exploration of my new life on the bike. And as The Eagles song goes

Take it easy, take it easy
Don't let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy
Lighten up while you still can
Don't even try to understand
Just find a place to make your stand, and take it easy

T10 till the next post.

Monday, October 31, 2016

What Will It Be Like

Last week Mike Lukk forwarded this link:  http://travelnevada.com/adventures/32339/cycling-across-america-western-express-trail

An excellent overview of the Western Express Route by a rider that did it and wrote about it along the way. I have yet to read all of it, but it is truly interesting. Keep in mind this is only the Western Express portion of the Trans America trek we will be doing early next year.

If you read my last post you now know that I'm still in experimentation mode with my bikes. I know I'm not going to ride my Cannondale Road bike. I may ride the Randonee touring bike and I may ride the Lighting R84 carbon recumbent with the Burley Touring Trailer. It's just too soon to tell yet.

But last night I e:mailed Lightning Cycle Dynamics to find out if I could change out my front crank chaining's to a more mountain bike set of gears. Tim Brummer replied first thing this morning telling me it would be no problem changing out my 52/30 Chainring set for a 48x26 set. More in tune with a Mountain Bike set up. So for about $300. I can obtain the gearing I need to easily pull a fully loaded trailer over the mountains. And still cruise at a descent pace across the desert and prairies.

I'd still need to change out my rear wheel for something less exotic than my Mavic wheels to assure I can easily find spokes that may break out on the road.

More after I ride the Randonee for 70 miles or so pulling the trailer. But I have to say, it is looking more and more probable that I'm going to ride across the US on a recumbent just like my brother did about 20 years ago.
Whoaaaaaaa......More soon....

Sunday, October 30, 2016

80 Miles of Learning

This marks my very first blog post to this site. As many of you know, Mike Lukk and I have committed to our long term goal of riding our bikes across America. We are calling it our URAAM or Ultramilers Ride Across America ride. We will do this unsupported, carrying all our gear on the bikes and following the Adventure cycling Western Express and Transcontinental Routes.

It is important to note that our route will include all of the Western Express route and then intersect the Transcontinental route in Pueblo Colorado. This route will take us across the center of the heartland of the US. From San Francisco California to Yorktown Va. A total distance of 3,758 miles. Whoaaaaa.

Today's post is meant to communicate our training ride yesterday and some of the realities of bicycle touring that I have to at least think about. From this point forward, much of our training will also include exploration of our bikes and our gear not to mention our mental and physical states. Both will be important because of the intensity and duration of this tour. We anticipate being on the road for up to 4 months.

The Training Ride

On Saturday October 29th, Mike and I began our training ride in Willis Texas. We rode at tour pace and well within our aerobic heart rate range at about 15-18 mph and 110 to 130 bpm heart rate. We rode up the service roads from Willis to Huntsville and then headed back via Hy30 to FM1791 to Coons Trail Road and then Pool Road and Bays Chapel Road. Eventually to Hy149 and FM1375 to Hy45 and back.

It was the Coon Trail and Pool / Bays Chapel Roads that gave us a tour like experience because it was here that we hit what we knew would be an unpaved / dirt portion of the ride. By the time we hit the dirt we had about 50 miles and the temp was beginning to warm up. Not as hot as summertime but still approaching 90f. And as a foot note: I had already downed 3 water bottles.

We continued our ride all of about 50 yards when both Mike and I stopped and got off our bikes. Both of us were sinking into dry quick sand allowing for virtually no bike control. So we started walking. After walking for maybe 200 yards, a truck approached us from the direction we were headed. Two Hispanic males with fishing gear were in the truck - lost and in search of a creek they intended to go fishing in.

After a brief discussion they told us the dirt extended about 4 miles to the south and then became paved again. Mike and I looked at each other and turned our bikes around to head back to 1791. What a shame I thought, as we had seen very few vehicles and some very nice scenery. Not to mention almost no noise as opposed to the Woodlands roads and FM1488.

Side note: I have decided that virtually 50% of every white male under the age of 35 in Montgomery County has a pickup truck or a motorcycle. I'm guessing about 40% of those vehicles have no muffler. The peace and quiet of Pool Rd. was a welcomed respite.

After hitting pavement again on our back track a Fed Ex truck pulled along side us. The driver, was a very friendly woman who immediately handed us both a bottle of ice cold water. She said: "you all are the first cyclists I've seen in these parts. I always see bikes on 1791 but not on this road" she said. We asked about the dirt. She stated, oh it's only about a mile or so. Just soft and beware of the dogs. We then talked about the store in Richards and how good their hamburgers were and the fact that the other newer store had just closed for the third time. It was a good and refreshing discussion.

We thanked her and turned around again, riding back to the dirt walking and riding to the end of it. Then again we were on good pavement soon riding up to the actual chapel that Bays Chapel Road was named after. A Methodists Church established in 1850. Think about that, This church and its community were established before the Civil War and perhaps even more importantly before the Comanches were taken out of action. (Read the book - "Empire of the Summer Moon".)

After a few more miles we found Hy149 and stopped for a bio break and water at the Polling station there at the intersection. Luckily for us, we found a water faucet behind the well house with ice cold well water in it. Now all we had to do was peddle the next 20 miles back to Willis via FM 1375 and Hy75.

As we road toward Hy75 on FM1375 we encountered a rider fully loaded with tour gear. We stopped to visit with him to find out where he had started and where he was going. Amazingly, he had started in Yorktown, Virginia on October 6. He then road south to Florida and picked up the Adventure Cycling Southern Tier route that would take him due west across Texas and eventually to San Diego. He said he was averaging 50 miles a day. He camped in city parks and Church grounds as listed in the Adventure Cycling maps. His intent was to ride to San Diego and then end his tour in San Francisco.

We asked him if he had an issue traveling alone. He said at first yes - but he had gotten used to it. Further he said he had planned his tour for many months with a friend that had committed to doing the tour with him, only to back out the day before their departure. I told Mike later, this really was not too unusual. Not many people actually follow through with BHAG goals like this. It just feels good to talk about it. (BHAG means Big Hairy Assed Goal). Mike said he agreed and that one would question whether or not the guy that cancelled was really his friend.

Our training ride totaled of almost 80 miles with some good lessons learned for me.

I will not be riding a road bike across America. It will either be my Touring bike or the Recumbent. I was starting to lean away from the Touring bike because of it's weight. But now know, weight is not nearly as important as practicality. But I am going to do a bit of comparison now between my Touring bike and my R-84 Lighting recumbent. Bottom line for me was, My butt, feet, shoulders and hands were hurting. Not something I wanted to experience every day for 3 months or more.

So on our next preparatory ride, I'm going to add my Burly Trekking trailer to either the Randonee or the R84 recumbent and give both a try. This will hopefully decide which bike will be used. The challenge I'm facing right now is that while the touring bike is made for touring, it is heavy. Like 32# heavy vs the Recumbent with is like 19#. So we will see. I will report on future posts.

One last lesson learned. It's not about the ride. As I enter what some are calling my retirement, I realize that this BHAG is not about the ride. It's about the journey. If all I had to look forward to each week was a set of rides that only took me back home, I'd go crazy and then go back to work. What I need is a goal. Something to work toward over and above a set of weekly rides.

We now have that goal. And we are going to do it. And relish each day of the journey toward the departure date, and then every day on the actual tour. And every day after the tour.

Till then, be safe. More will follow.
T10